THE ISLAND OF ENSAIMADAS

There are certain things that represent nations — and especially cities — even more than their monuments: bulls in Spain, pizza in Naples, blood oranges in Sicily, cypress-lined roads in Tuscany, flowers in the Netherlands… and the list goes on.

When my grandfather saw a little bottle of Coca-Cola, he couldn’t help but think of America, even though he had never crossed the Atlantic. He knew he could enjoy a little taste of the United States simply by going to the café down the street.

Many years ago, after a trip to Paris, I remember my neighbor caught me off guard with a question: “Did you eat macarons?” As a good Italian, I associated “maccheroni” with pasta, so I nodded and gave a half-smile, pretending I understood, and answered, “Yes!” Back then, the internet didn’t exist, and to connect a name with a product, you had to ask someone more knowledgeable or check an encyclopedia — without knowing for sure (and without a spell checker to guide you) whether you were even looking up the right word.

In short, after being in France, my neighbor wasn’t interested in whether I’d visited the Louvre or seen the Eiffel Tower, but instead wanted to know if I had tried some typical French pastries.

To save you from the same situation, here’s our advice: if you’re in Mallorca, you must try the ensaimada! A traditional sweet from the island, spiral-shaped and well beyond Spanish borders by now. Since 1996, it’s been recognized as a Protected Geographical Indication product. The ingredients are simple: wheat flour, water, eggs, sugar, yeast, and pork lard (in Catalan, saïm, from which the name of the pastry derives).

The ensaimada will greet you when you step off your plane and bid you farewell when you leave Son Sant Joan Airport. Its beautiful hexagonal box (made of cardboard or metal), styled with a vintage flair, will accompany you throughout your holiday — scattered all over bars, bakeries, pastry shops, and a variety of more or less improvised “points of sale.”

Pastry chefs say the secret to a good ensaimada, beyond the quality and quantity of ingredients (which isn’t an exact science), lies in the artisanal work of the dough. This explains why so many tourists are curious to find the best place to eat or buy this traditional sweet.

As non-experts (taste is subjective), and considering the countless varieties (at Forn Fondo you can try up to twenty different kinds of ensaimada), we feel confident recommending some of the most iconic bakeries in Mallorca:

Fornet de la Soca, a beautiful spot in the heart of Palma. If you’re lucky, you might meet the owners — two fabulous “characters” who post recipes and sweets accompanied by music, dances, and skits, always sprinkling their stories with joyful flair. Not to miss: FORNET DE LA SOCA. Address: Plaça de Weyler, 9, Centre, 07001 Palma, Illes Balears.

Ca’n Joan de S’Aigo, this very old “horchatería and chocolatería” has been around for over three centuries. In our opinion, it’s worth visiting if only to see lovely Mallorcan ladies chatting at tables while keeping the tradition alive of enjoying chocolate with quarto (another typical sweet) or ensaimada.

Forn de Santo Cristo is probably the most widely recognized pastry shop, with several locations around the island — especially at Palma airport. It’s great for a “last-minute” treat before your flight home.

If you don’t feel like venturing into Palma and want to take a short walk from Hotel BonSol, you can reach the nearby Forn San Agustín, where you can order delicious ensaimadas “to take away” for your trip or enjoy them on-site with a nice cup of coffee…

Naturally, at our breakfast buffet, this traditional Mallorcan pastry is always present. So then, happy ensaimada to everyone!